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Article: Retinal vs. Retinol: What Should Guide Your Choice?

Two pale yellow cream swatches side by side on a matte mineral surface.

Retinal vs. Retinol: What Should Guide Your Choice?

Retinal beat retinol on most measures, including wrinkle depth, in a small study that tested them on opposite sides of the same faces.3 But the retinal was in a special layered delivery system, so the result belongs to that cream as a whole.3 Retinol has its own human evidence too, so if you already use it, whether to switch depends on how your current product is working for you.4

If it's comfortable and you're pleased with the results, keeping it is a good choice. If it's comfortable but your fine lines still bother you, retinal is worth considering. And if dryness or redness keeps interrupting use, deal with the irritation before changing anything else.

What's the difference between retinol and retinal?

Retinol and retinal both belong to the retinoid family, a group of vitamin A-related ingredients. Retinal is short for retinaldehyde, so if you see either name on a label, it's the same ingredient.1, 2

Skin converts retinol into retinal, then retinal into retinoic acid, an active form involved in regulating how skin cells grow and develop. Starting with retinal skips the first step.2

Retinol → retinal → retinoic acid

A retinol cream supplies the first of the three forms and a retinal cream supplies the middle one, which is why retinol is often described as taking two conversion steps and retinal as taking one. It's a bit like joining a relay race at the second leg.

One conversion step doesn't mean wrinkles improve in half the time, though. The sequence shows how the forms are related, and you need studies of people's skin to see what each does to fine lines and texture.

What has each one done in studies?

In the split-face study, researchers compared a retinal cream made with a layered delivery system against a retinol cream in Korean volunteers. After eight weeks, both improved measured signs of aging, and the retinal side improved more in most of the outcomes measured, including wrinkle depth.3 If you're hoping for more improvement in fine lines, that gives you a reason to consider retinal. Because the retinal was tested in a particular delivery system, though, the benefit reflects that retinal cream as a whole.3

The extra conversion step doesn't stop retinol from working. In a separate study, Japanese women applied a retinol cream to one side of the face and the same cream without retinol to the other. At 26 weeks, improvement in fine wrinkles favored the retinol side, and three participants withdrew because of irritation.4

Label percentages can make the choice more confusing. A retinal cream at 0.1% and a retinol cream at 0.1% contain equal concentrations of different ingredients, so the numbers aren't matched strengths or a guide to swapping one for the other. The split-face study tested specific creams, including how the retinal was delivered.2, 3

Start with your current product

Your retinol is working and feels comfortable

Suppose your skin looks smoother, you're pleased with the improvement, and the product fits easily into your evening. That's a good reason to keep using it, since retinol has demonstrated benefits for wrinkles.4 You may still enjoy trying something new, but if you're happy with the results, retinal isn't a required next step. Curiosity and dissatisfaction are different reasons to change a product. You also know how your retinol feels, how it sits with the rest of your skincare and whether you enjoy applying it, and all of that deserves a place in the decision alongside the chance of more improvement.

Your skin tolerates retinol, but you want more improvement

Perhaps the product feels comfortable, but the fine lines that prompted you to try it still bother you. Retinal is worth considering here, given its favorable result in the small split-face study.3 First, though, think about how long and how regularly you've used your current product, since the studies measured changes over weeks to months.3, 4 If you've only just started, you have less to judge it on. If you've used it comfortably for a while and you're still dissatisfied, you have a clearer reason to try a change.

When comparing replacements, weigh texture and price alongside the result you're hoping for. You may be willing to pay more or use a richer cream to try something new, or you may prefer a product that feels like the retinol you already enjoy. Introduce the new formula gradually.1

Irritation keeps interrupting use

If dryness or redness keeps making you stop, comfort is the problem to solve now, and choosing retinal because it sounds stronger won't solve it.

The American Academy of Dermatology recommends introducing retinoids gradually and using moisturizer. If your skin has substantial redness or inflammation, it advises seeking a dermatologist's guidance.1

Before buying a replacement, note how often you're applying your current product and when the discomfort appears. Your notes give you something specific to discuss with a dermatologist, who can help assess persistent irritation and whether a different approach would suit your skin.1

If you decide to switch

Introduce the new product gradually, using its directions to guide how much and how often. Keep moisturizer and daytime sun protection in your routine. Retinoids should not be used during pregnancy.1

To judge the new product for yourself, take an occasional photo in the same lighting and note any discomfort. Avoid changing several treatment products at once, so you can tell how the new product suits you.

Retinal may be worth trying when you have a clear reason to change. If your retinol is comfortable and you're pleased with the results, keeping it is just as deliberate a decision.

Sources

  1. American Academy of Dermatology. Retinoid or retinol? Updated May 25, 2021.
  2. Siegenthaler G, et al. Retinol and retinal metabolism. Relationship to the state of differentiation of cultured human keratinocytes. Biochemical Journal, 1990. Free full text.
  3. Kim J, et al. The efficacy and safety of multilamellar vesicle containing retinaldehyde: A double-blinded, randomized, split-face controlled study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2021.
  4. Kikuchi K, et al. Improvement of photoaged facial skin in middle-aged Japanese females by topical retinol (vitamin A alcohol): a vehicle-controlled, double-blind study. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2009.

Tagged: retinoids, Skincare Guides

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