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3-Glyceryl Ascorbate
3GA · iVC 3GA
A glycerol-linked vitamin C derivative studied for reducing oxidative stress in cells.
Vitamin C
Oxidative stress
Vitamin C derivative
Research & sources
In a cell experiment, the supplier reported lower reactive oxygen species after UV exposure with 3-glyceryl ascorbate. The numbered name identifies the position of the glyceryl modification and distinguishes it from other glyceryl ascorbates.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Ethyl Ascorbic Acid · EAA · ETVC
A modified form of vitamin C studied for antioxidant activity and uneven tone.
Vitamin C
Oxidative stress · Uneven tone
Vitamin C derivative
Research & sources
Laboratory studies have examined its stability, skin delivery, and effects on pigment cells. A clinical report also tested a serum combining 30% ethyl ascorbic acid with 1% lactic acid.
Alpha-Lipoic Acid
Thioctic Acid · ALA · Lipoic acid
An antioxidant studied in a topical cream for fine lines and skin texture.
Other antioxidants
Lines & firmness
Redox activity
Research & sources
A randomized, double-blind study compared a 5% alpha-lipoic acid cream with its base cream on opposite sides of the face. Researchers reported improvements in signs of photoaging over 12 weeks.
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
AAP · VAP
A modified vitamin C ingredient offered for antioxidant skin care.
Vitamin C
Oxidative stress
Vitamin C derivative
Research & sources
Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate is a vitamin C derivative described in supplier ingredient documentation. It is used in formulas intended for antioxidant care and uneven tone.
Apigenin
A plant flavonoid studied for oxidative-stress responses in skin cells.
Plant phenolics
Oxidative stress
Flavonoids
Research & sources
Experiments with cultured fibroblasts examined apigenin and other flavonoids for effects on reactive oxygen species and enzymes involved in collagen breakdown.
Ascorbic Acid
L-Ascorbic Acid · LAA · Pure vitamin C
The pure form of vitamin C, used for more even tone, fine lines and antioxidant care.
Vitamin C
Oxidative stress · Uneven tone · Lines & firmness
Water-solublePure vitamin C
Read more in Field Notes: Oil-Soluble Vitamin C (THD) vs. L-Ascorbic Acid: Stability, Delivery, and Evidence
Research & sources
A human UV study found less redness and cellular damage with a combination of 15% ascorbic acid, 1% tocopherol, and 0.5% ferulic acid. Formulation research also examines how to keep ascorbic acid active and deliver it into skin.
Ascorbyl Glucoside
AA2G · Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside
A sugar-linked form of vitamin C used in antioxidant and brightening formulas.
Vitamin C
Oxidative stress · Uneven tone
Water-solubleVitamin C derivative
Research & sources
Ascorbyl glucoside links vitamin C to glucose. Researchers have studied how this changes its formulation behavior and delivery into skin, including delivery assisted by laser treatment.
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
Ascorbosilane
A vitamin C-containing silanol ingredient used in antioxidant skin-care formulas.
Vitamin C
Oxidative stress
Vitamin C derivative
Research & sources
An analytical study characterized ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate for cosmetic formulation, examining its identity and physical properties. It combines an ascorbic-acid component with a silanol-based ingredient structure.
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Vitamin C palmitate
A vitamin C ester often used to help protect a formula's oils from oxidation.
Vitamin C
Formula protection
Oil-solubleVitamin C derivative
Research & sources
Ascorbyl palmitate links ascorbic acid to palmitic acid, making an oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. It is used as a formula antioxidant to help protect oxidation-sensitive ingredients. The cited cosmetic assessment covers its identity and use.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
ATIP · VC-IP
An oil-soluble vitamin C ester used in skin-care formulas.
Vitamin C
Oxidative stress · Uneven tone
Oil-solubleVitamin C derivative
Research & sources
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is an oil-soluble vitamin C derivative studied for pigmentation. A 42-day study in 32 women compared several antioxidant formulas with a control. The formula containing this ingredient reduced pigmentation measurements. It is also called ATIP or VC-IP; ingredient records distinguish its name from tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.
Astaxanthin
Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract
A red carotenoid studied for oxidative stress and signs of skin aging.
Carotenoids
Oxidative stress · Lines & firmness
Oil-solublePigment
Research & sources
Astaxanthin has been studied for skin hydration, wrinkles, and responses to UV exposure. One small study combined oral and topical astaxanthin. Haematococcus pluvialis is an algae source of this red carotenoid.
Baicalin
A flavonoid studied for limiting oxidative-stress responses in skin cells.
Plant phenolics
Oxidative stress
Flavonoids
Research & sources
A laboratory study treated human fibroblasts with baicalin before UVA exposure and measured cellular changes associated with aging. Baicalin and baicalein are distinct compounds found in Scutellaria plants.
Bakuchiol
A plant-derived phenolic studied for wrinkles and uneven pigmentation.
Plant phenolics
Lines & firmness · Uneven tone
Phenolic compounds
Read more in Field Notes: The Case for Bakuchiol
Research & sources
A 12-week randomized study in 44 participants compared 0.5% bakuchiol twice daily with 0.5% retinol once daily. Both groups improved, with some differences in tolerability. Bakuchiol is chemically distinct from retinol and belongs to a different ingredient family.
Beta-Carotene
Carotene · Beta carotene
An orange carotenoid studied for its response to oxidative stress in skin cells.
Carotenoids
Oxidative stress
Oil-solublePigment
Research & sources
In keratinocytes, beta-carotene affected UVA-induced signals associated with collagen breakdown. It is an orange carotenoid pigment and a vitamin A precursor, chemically distinct from retinol.
BHA
Butylated hydroxyanisole
An antioxidant used to help keep a formula from oxidizing.
Formula stabilizers
Formula protection
Formula antioxidant
Research & sources
Here, BHA means butylated hydroxyanisole, an antioxidant used to protect formulas from oxidation. The abbreviation is also used for beta hydroxy acids, such as the exfoliant salicylic acid, which are a different ingredient category.
BHT
Butylated hydroxytoluene
An antioxidant used to help protect a product's oils and other sensitive ingredients.
Formula stabilizers
Formula protection
Formula antioxidant
Research & sources
BHT helps slow oxidation in a formula, protecting oils and other sensitive ingredients. The cosmetic assessment covers its use and safety. Antioxidants address oxidation, while antimicrobial preservatives control bacteria, yeast, and mold.
Bis-Glyceryl Ascorbate
DGA · iVC DGA
A vitamin C derivative developed for moisturizing formulas and improved formulation stability.
Vitamin C
Moisture & barrier
Vitamin C derivative
Research & sources
This derivative carries two glycerol groups. Supplier testing describes its formulation behavior and stability under the storage conditions studied.
Caffeic Acid
Caffeate
A plant phenolic studied for antioxidant activity and UV-related redness.
Plant phenolics
Oxidative stress
Phenolic acid
Research & sources
Research examined caffeic acid in excised human skin and in a human UVB experiment using aqueous solutions. It reduced UVB-induced redness under the conditions studied. Caffeic acid and caffeine are different compounds.
Carnosic Acid
A rosemary antioxidant studied in skin cells and for limiting lipid oxidation.
Plant phenolics
Oxidative stress · Formula protection
Phenolic diterpene
Research & sources
Cell experiments found changes in UV-induced oxidative stress and enzymes associated with collagen breakdown after treatment with carnosic acid. Separate chemical work examines its oxidation products. Rosemary extract can supply carnosic acid alongside other phenolic compounds.
Carnosine
L-Carnosine · Beta-alanyl-L-histidine
A dipeptide studied for limiting reactions that can alter skin proteins.
Other antioxidants
Oxidative stress · Lines & firmness
PeptideGlycation
Research & sources
Glycation occurs when sugars or related reactive compounds attach to proteins. A study of human skin tissue maintained outside the body found changes in glycation markers after applying carnosine or a carnosine-containing cream.
Also in the Peptides A–Z guide
Catalase
CAT
An enzyme that breaks down hydrogen peroxide as part of antioxidant defense.
Enzymes & mimetics
Oxidative stress
Enzyme
Research & sources
Catalase breaks down hydrogen peroxide and works alongside other antioxidant enzymes. Studies have measured its activity in skin and examined combinations containing catalase for specific skin conditions.
Chlorogenic Acid
Caffeoylquinic acid
A plant phenolic studied for antioxidant activity and delivery into skin.
Plant phenolics
Oxidative stress
Phenolic acid
Research & sources
A study measured chlorogenic acid, rutin, and quercetin in human skin tissue after applying different apple-extract formulations. Penetration varied with the carrier. Chlorogenic acid belongs to a family of caffeoylquinic acids found in plants.
Coenzyme Q10
Ubiquinone · CoQ10 · Q10
An antioxidant involved in cellular energy production and studied in topical skin care.
Other antioxidants
Oxidative stress
Oil-solubleCellular energy
Research & sources
A manufacturer-affiliated study found increased skin Q10 and changes in antioxidant measures after applying Q10 formulas. It also measured ubiquinol, the reduced form of Q10. The research examined delivery and antioxidant activity in skin.
Curcumin
Diferuloylmethane
A yellow turmeric compound investigated for oxidative-stress and inflammatory pathways.
Plant phenolics
Oxidative stress
CurcuminoidsPigment
Research & sources
Curcumin is the intensely colored constituent studied separately from whole turmeric extract. In skin-cell research, its effects changed with light exposure, including effects on cell survival.
Disodium EDTA
EDTA · Disodium edetate
A metal-binding ingredient that helps stabilize a formula.
Formula stabilizers
Formula protection
Metal binder
Research & sources
EDTA binds metal ions that can contribute to unwanted reactions in a product. This supports formula stability and can complement antioxidant and preservative systems. Metal-binding ingredients are also called chelating agents.
Ellagic Acid
A plant phenolic studied in formulas for uneven pigmentation.
Plant phenolics
Uneven tone
Phenolic compounds
Research & sources
A controlled study compared a formula containing 0.5% ellagic acid and 0.1% salicylic acid with hydroquinone. It reported improved pigmentation with the combination formula. Ellagic acid also occurs in plants such as pomegranate.
Epigallocatechin Gallate
EGCG · Epigallocatechin-3-gallate
A green-tea polyphenol studied for blemishes, sebum-related activity and oxidative stress.
Plant phenolics
Oxidative stress · Oil & blemishes
FlavonoidsTea polyphenols
Research & sources
An eight-week split-face clinical trial evaluated topical EGCG for acne and reported improvement with the tested treatment. Supporting laboratory work examined its effects on skin cells. EGCG is one of green tea's principal catechins.
Ergothioneine
L-Ergothioneine · EGT
An antioxidant used by skin cells and studied for responses to UV-related stress.
Other antioxidants
Oxidative stress
Sulfur-containing compound
Research & sources
Experiments in human skin cells examine ergothioneine uptake, antioxidant pathways, and changes in enzymes associated with collagen breakdown. Skin cells have a transport system that takes up ergothioneine.
EUK-134
Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride · EUK 134
A synthetic compound designed to mimic aspects of antioxidant enzyme activity.
Enzymes & mimetics
Oxidative stress
Enzyme mimetic
Research & sources
A human skin study examined topical EUK-134 and measured changes in surface lipid-peroxide levels, including before UVA exposure. EUK-134 is a synthetic compound designed to mimic aspects of SOD and catalase activity.
Ferulic Acid
Ferulate
An antioxidant studied in combinations with vitamins C and E.
Plant phenolics
Oxidative stress
Phenolic acidAntioxidant combinations
Research & sources
Human UV-exposure research has studied ferulic acid in antioxidant combinations, including a formula with ascorbic acid and tocopherol. Researchers measured reduced redness and cellular damage after controlled exposure.
Fucoxanthin
A brown-algae carotenoid being studied for oxidative stress and UV-related skin responses.
Carotenoids
Oxidative stress
Oil-solublePigment
Research & sources
A fucoxanthin cream was studied in mice exposed to UVB. Researchers measured changes in redness and skin thickening. Fucoxanthin is a carotenoid found in brown algae.
Fullerenes
C60 · Fullerene-C60 · Buckminsterfullerene
Carbon-based molecules studied in particular antioxidant skin-care preparations.
Other antioxidants
Oxidative stress · Lines & firmness
Carbon compoundsFormulation matters
Research & sources
A small controlled study tested a cream containing fullerene-C60 dissolved in squalane for eight weeks. Some wrinkle measurements improved, while the findings varied by measurement.
Genistein
A soy isoflavone studied in creams for hydration and signs of skin aging.
Plant phenolics
Moisture & barrier · Lines & firmness
Isoflavone
Research & sources
A six-week trial in postmenopausal women tested a formula containing genistein, vitamin E, niacinamide, and ceramide. Most wrinkle comparisons across the full study population showed no clear advantage between groups; some subgroup findings were more favorable.
Glabridin
A licorice compound studied for its effects on pigment production.
Plant phenolics
Uneven tone
Flavonoids
Research & sources
Laboratory work examines glabridin's effects on pigment pathways and its delivery into skin. An uncontrolled pilot study reported improvement in melasma with a gel combining glabridin, andrographolide, and apolactoferrin. Glabridin is one constituent of licorice root.
Glutathione
GSH · Oxidized glutathione · GSSG
An antioxidant involved in the body's defenses, with some topical research on pigmentation.
Other antioxidants
Oxidative stress · Uneven tone
PeptideForms differ
Research & sources
A controlled topical study examined 2% oxidized glutathione, or GSSG, for pigmentation. Reduced glutathione, or GSH, has a different chemical state and stability. Glutathione is a tripeptide involved in the body's antioxidant defenses.
Also in the Peptides A–Z guide
Glyceryl Ascorbate
2-Glyceryl Ascorbate · 2GA · iVC 2GA
A glycerol-linked vitamin C derivative developed for moisturizing formulas.
Vitamin C
Moisture & barrier
Vitamin C derivative
Research & sources
The manufacturer's iVC range includes glyceryl derivatives with different structures. Its ingredient data describe moisturizing properties and formulation behavior. Glyceryl ascorbate, 3-glyceryl ascorbate, and bis-glyceryl ascorbate have separate ingredient names.
Hesperidin
A citrus flavonoid studied for skin-barrier responses.
Plant phenolics
Moisture & barrier
Flavonoids
Research & sources
Topical hesperidin improved barrier recovery after experimental disruption in mice. Baseline barrier function did not improve in the same way. Hesperidin methyl chalcone is a separate derivative.
Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone
HMC
A hesperidin derivative studied for oxidative stress and inflammatory skin responses.
Plant phenolics
Oxidative stress · Redness & comfort
Flavonoid derivative
Research & sources
Research in hairless mice examined hesperidin methyl chalcone's effects on UVB-related oxidative and inflammatory damage. This water-soluble hesperidin derivative is also used in eye-care formulas.
Honokiol & Magnolol
Honokiol · Magnolol · Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Two magnolia compounds studied for skin delivery and antioxidant activity.
Plant phenolics
Oxidative stress
Phenolic compounds
Research & sources
Honokiol and magnolol are closely related compounds found in magnolia bark. Delivery research examines them separately, including how their structures affect passage through skin.
Hydroxytyrosol
An olive-associated phenolic studied for oxidative-stress responses in skin cells.
Plant phenolics
Oxidative stress
Phenolic compounds
Research & sources
A keratinocyte study examined hydroxytyrosol's effects on cell behavior and protection from hydrogen peroxide. Hydroxytyrosol is a phenolic compound found in olives and olive-derived ingredients.
Idebenone
Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone
A synthetic relative of CoQ10 studied in creams for signs of skin aging.
Other antioxidants
Lines & firmness · Moisture & barrier
CoQ10 relative
Research & sources
A clinical study tested creams containing 0.5% or 1% idebenone and reported changes in measures of photodamaged skin. The study compared two active concentrations without a control cream. Idebenone is a synthetic relative of CoQ10.
Lutein
A yellow carotenoid studied with zeaxanthin in topical and oral skin-care regimens.
Carotenoids
Oxidative stress · Moisture & barrier
Oil-solublePigment
Research & sources
A controlled study examined lutein and zeaxanthin together through topical, oral, and combined use. It reported changes in skin measurements, including hydration and responses to UV exposure.
Luteolin
A flavonoid studied for UV-related stress in skin cells and tissue.
Plant phenolics
Oxidative stress
Flavonoids
Research & sources
Research in fibroblasts, keratinocytes, and skin tissue examined luteolin's effects on stress signals and an enzyme involved in collagen breakdown. Luteolin is a flavonoid; lutein is a carotenoid.
Lycopene
A red carotenoid studied in antioxidant delivery systems for skin.
Carotenoids
Oxidative stress
Oil-solublePigment
Research & sources
A laboratory study tested lycopene microemulsions for skin penetration and antioxidant activity in tissue. Delivery varied with the formula, making the carrier a focus of this research.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
MAP · APM
A vitamin C derivative used in formulas for uneven tone and antioxidant care.
Vitamin C
Oxidative stress · Uneven tone
Water-solubleVitamin C derivative
Research & sources
MAP reduced pigment production and oxidative stress in cultured pigment cells. Skin-model research also examines its delivery and conversion to ascorbic acid.
Mangiferin
A plant phenolic studied for antioxidant activity and delivery through skin.
Plant phenolics
Oxidative stress
Xanthone
Research & sources
A study measured mangiferin and hesperidin in human skin tissue after applying isolated compounds or honeybush extracts. Researchers assessed how each preparation delivered these compounds into different skin layers.
Melatonin
N-acetyl-5-methoxytryptamine
A molecule studied topically for responses to UV-related oxidative stress.
Other antioxidants
Oxidative stress
Application timing matters
Research & sources
Human UV experiments have examined melatonin applied before and after exposure. Timing affected the findings: a post-exposure study found no protection against the measured sunburn and immune effects.
Niacinamide
Nicotinamide · Vitamin B3
A form of vitamin B3 studied for uneven tone, fine lines and skin-barrier support.
Antioxidant support
Uneven tone · Lines & firmness · Moisture & barrier
Vitamin B3Cellular support
Read more in Field Notes: Can You Use Peptides and Niacinamide Together?
Research & sources
Niacinamide supports cellular processes involved in antioxidant defense. A manufacturer-affiliated split-face trial tested 5% niacinamide against a control for 12 weeks and reported improvements in several signs of skin aging. Niacinamide, nicotinic acid, and NMN are distinct ingredients.
Nicotinamide Mononucleotide
NMN · Beta-NMN
A precursor involved in NAD metabolism, being investigated for topical skin use.
Antioxidant support
Oxidative stress
NAD precursorCellular support
Research & sources
NMN is a precursor involved in NAD metabolism. Recent research explores delivery systems for topical NMN and responses in skin cells. NMN and niacinamide are separate ingredients involved in related cellular pathways.
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Tinogard TT
An antioxidant used to help keep a formula's oils, fragrance and other sensitive ingredients stable.
Formula stabilizers
Formula protection
Formula antioxidant
Research & sources
The manufacturer's technical material describes its use in protecting formulas against oxidation-related changes. It helps preserve sensitive ingredients, including oils and fragrance components.
Phloretin
A plant phenolic studied in antioxidant combinations with vitamin C and ferulic acid.
Plant phenolics
Oxidative stress
FlavonoidsAntioxidant combinations
Research & sources
A small human study applied a formula containing phloretin, ascorbic acid, and ferulic acid before controlled UV exposure. Researchers measured changes in redness and cellular markers.
Phytic Acid & Sodium Phytate
Phytic Acid · Sodium Phytate · Inositol hexaphosphate · IP6
An acid and its salt used to bind metals and help stabilize formulas.
Formula stabilizers
Formula protection
Metal binderForms differ
Research & sources
Phytic acid and sodium phytate are an acid and its salt, used to bind metals in formulas. Their formulation behavior depends partly on pH. Supplier documentation and a cosmetic assessment describe their chelating role.
Phytoene & Phytofluene
Phytoene · Phytofluene · Dunaliella Salina Extract
Colorless carotenoids studied in extracts and antioxidant combinations.
Carotenoids
Oxidative stress
Colorless carotenoids
Research & sources
Phytoene and phytofluene are colorless carotenoids. Cell research has examined them with CoQ10, and a separate study assessed the skin compatibility of carotenoid-rich tomato and Dunaliella salina extracts.
Propyl Gallate
Propyl ester of gallic acid
An antioxidant used to help protect a formula's oxidation-sensitive ingredients.
Formula stabilizers
Formula protection
Formula antioxidant
Research & sources
Propyl gallate is an ester of gallic acid used as a formula antioxidant. The cosmetic assessment documents its role in helping protect oxidation-sensitive ingredients.
Pterostilbene
Dimethylated resveratrol
A relative of resveratrol studied in a cream for skin tone and signs of aging.
Plant phenolics
Lines & firmness · Uneven tone
Stilbene
Research & sources
A small, open-label study evaluated a 0.4% pterostilbene cream for eight weeks and reported improvements. The study had no control cream and included investigators affiliated with the ingredient industry.
Pyrroloquinoline Quinone
PQQ · Pyrroloquinoline Quinone Disodium · PQQ2Na · Allyl PQQ
A compound studied for cellular stress responses, with different salts and derivatives.
Antioxidant support
Oxidative stress
Forms differ
Research & sources
A skin-cell study of PQQ disodium found effects on inflammatory signaling but no increase in the formation of new mitochondria. A separate human report studied an allyl PQQ derivative in a multi-ingredient topical product.
Quercetin
Quercetin aglycone
A plant flavonoid studied for antioxidant activity in topical formulations.
Plant phenolics
Oxidative stress
Flavonoids
Research & sources
Laboratory work examines quercetin's antioxidant activity and formulation stability. In a small human study of experimentally irritated skin, topical quercetin did not improve redness or barrier recovery.
Resveratrol
Trans-resveratrol
A plant phenolic studied in topical and oral regimens for signs of skin aging.
Plant phenolics
Oxidative stress · Lines & firmness
Stilbene
Research & sources
A randomized study compared oral resveratrol, a topical cream, both together, and placebos. The clearest wrinkle improvement occurred with combined oral and topical treatment. Laboratory studies also examine resveratrol's effects on cellular stress pathways.
Rosmarinic Acid
An antioxidant found in herbs and studied as part of topical formulas.
Plant phenolics
Oxidative stress
Phenolic acid
Research & sources
A study examined rosmarinic acid added to sunscreen formulas, including antioxidant measurements in skin samples. Rosmarinic acid is one of the phenolic compounds found in rosemary and other plants.
Rutin
Rutoside · Quercetin-3-rutinoside
A flavonoid studied in creams for skin elasticity and wrinkles.
Plant phenolics
Lines & firmness
Flavonoids
Research & sources
A double-blind study in 40 adults compared a rutin cream with a control over four weeks and reported improvements in elasticity and wrinkles. Supporting experiments examined its effects in fibroblasts, the cells that produce skin's structural proteins.
Sea Buckthorn Oil
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil · Sea-buckthorn oil
A fruit oil used to soften skin and supply a mixture of lipids and pigments.
Botanical extracts
Moisture & barrier
Botanical oilExtract composition varies
Research & sources
Sea-buckthorn fruit oil supplies lipids and pigments and is used as an emollient. Research has studied seed oils, pulp oils, and extracts separately. One small human study tested a berry-extract emulsion.
Selenium
Selenium Aspartate · Glutathione peroxidase · GPx
A nutrient involved in the body's antioxidant enzyme systems.
Antioxidant support
Oxidative stress
MineralBiological context
Research & sources
Selenium is a nutrient required by some glutathione peroxidase enzymes, which help break down peroxides in the body. Cosmetic use restrictions vary by selenium compound and market. Selenium aspartate is one compound associated with this ingredient category.
Silymarin
Milk-thistle flavonolignans · Silybin · Silibinin
A milk-thistle compound mixture studied in topical formulas for uneven pigmentation.
Plant phenolics
Uneven tone
Flavonolignans
Research & sources
A small study compared two concentrations of silymarin cream with hydroquinone in women with melasma and reported improved pigmentation scores. Silymarin is a mixture of milk-thistle compounds. Silybin, also called silibinin, is one constituent.
Sodium Ascorbate
Ascorbic acid sodium salt
A salt of vitamin C used as an antioxidant in formulations.
Vitamin C
Formula protection · Oxidative stress
Water-solubleVitamin C salt
Research & sources
Sodium ascorbate is the sodium salt of ascorbic acid. The cosmetic assessment documents its identity and use as an antioxidant. It is a different ingredient from sodium ascorbyl phosphate, often abbreviated SAP.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
SAP · Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate
A modified form of vitamin C studied in antioxidant and wrinkle-care formulas.
Vitamin C
Oxidative stress · Lines & firmness
Water-solubleVitamin C derivative
Research & sources
SAP is a phosphate derivative of ascorbic acid. A study compared 5% SAP and 5% ascorbic acid emulgels for stability and effects on facial wrinkles. SAP and sodium ascorbate are different vitamin C ingredients.
Sodium Metabisulfite
Sodium metabisulphite · Sodium pyrosulfite
A reducing ingredient used to help protect oxidation-sensitive formulas.
Formula stabilizers
Formula protection
Reducing agent
Research & sources
Sodium metabisulfite is a reducing agent used to protect oxidation-sensitive formulas. The cosmetic assessment covers sulfite ingredients and their use conditions. Contact allergy has been reported. Sulfites and sulfates are different ingredient groups.
Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate
TPNa · Vitamin E phosphate
A phosphate form of vitamin E studied for delivery and conversion in skin models.
Vitamin E
Oxidative stress
Vitamin E derivative
Research & sources
Reconstructed-skin experiments have examined sodium tocopheryl phosphate's penetration and conversion to tocopherol. The research measures delivery at different applied amounts.
Squalene
A natural skin lipid that can also be used as an emollient in formulas.
Other antioxidants
Moisture & barrier
Oil-solubleSkin lipid
Read more in Field Notes: Squalane: Helping Dry Skin Hold On to Water
Research & sources
Squalene is a natural component of skin-surface lipids. It reacts readily with reactive oxygen and can become oxidized itself; researchers have identified its oxidation products on human skin. Squalane is its hydrogenated, more oxidation-resistant relative, widely used as an emollient.
Sulforaphane
Broccoli sprout extract · Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract
A broccoli-associated compound studied for activating cellular defense responses.
Antioxidant support
Oxidative stress
Cellular support
Research & sources
A small human study applied a sulforaphane-rich broccoli-sprout extract before controlled UV exposure and measured reduced redness. Sulforaphane is studied for activating cellular defense pathways.
Superoxide Dismutase
SOD
An enzyme that helps convert superoxide into less reactive products.
Enzymes & mimetics
Oxidative stress
Enzyme
Research & sources
SOD converts superoxide into less reactive products and works alongside enzymes such as catalase in the skin's antioxidant defenses. Human skin research measures these enzymes' activity in the outer skin layers.
Taxifolin
Dihydroquercetin
A flavonoid being studied for responses to UV-related oxidative stress.
Plant phenolics
Oxidative stress
Flavonoids
Research & sources
Research in cells and mice exposed to UV has examined taxifolin's effects on oxidative stress and skin responses. Taxifolin is also called dihydroquercetin, reflecting its chemical relationship to quercetin.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
THD · THDA · THD ascorbate
An oil-soluble vitamin C derivative used in antioxidant and brightening formulas.
Vitamin C
Oxidative stress · Uneven tone
Oil-solubleVitamin C derivative
Read more in Field Notes: Oil-Soluble Vitamin C (THD) vs. L-Ascorbic Acid: Stability, Delivery, and Evidence
Research & sources
THD is an oil-soluble vitamin C derivative studied for pigmentation, wrinkles, and antioxidant activity. An eight-week, supplier-funded trial in 44 adults compared 5% THD with 5% THD plus 1% acetyl zingerone. The combination improved wrinkle, pigmentation, and redness measures; THD alone showed little pigmentation change and increases in wrinkle and redness measures. Ingredient records list THD and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate separately.
Tetrahydrocurcumin
Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane · Tetrahydrocurcuminoids
A less strongly colored curcumin derivative studied for skin-related activity.
Plant phenolics
Oxidative stress · Uneven tone
Curcumin derivative
Research & sources
Experiments in fibroblast and pigment-cell lines have explored tetrahydrocurcumin's effects. It is a reduced derivative of curcumin. Tetrahydrocurcuminoids is a broader name for a mixture of related compounds.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
GLDA · Dissolvine GL
A metal-binding ingredient used to support product stability and preservation.
Formula stabilizers
Formula protection
Metal binder
Research & sources
GLDA is a chelating agent used in personal-care formulas. By binding trace metals, it helps limit unwanted changes in color, odor, and product quality.
Tocopherol
Vitamin E · Alpha-tocopherol · Mixed tocopherols
A form of vitamin E that helps limit oxidation in skin-care formulas and skin lipids.
Vitamin E
Oxidative stress · Formula protection
Oil-solubleLipid protection
Research & sources
Tocopherol is used both to protect formulas from oxidation and in antioxidant skincare. A human UV study found less redness and cellular damage with alpha-tocopherol, ascorbic acid, and ferulic acid together. Mixed tocopherols contain several vitamin E forms.
Tocopheryl Acetate
Vitamin E acetate
A widely used vitamin E derivative designed for formulation stability.
Vitamin E
Oxidative stress
Oil-solubleVitamin E derivative
Research & sources
Tocopheryl acetate has an acetate group attached to tocopherol. Skin must convert it back to tocopherol to release the free antioxidant group. The cited cosmetic assessment covers its identity and use in skincare.
Tocopheryl Glucoside
Delta-tocopheryl glucoside · Pretocopheryl
A sugar-linked vitamin E derivative used in antioxidant formulas.
Vitamin E
Oxidative stress
Vitamin E derivative
Research & sources
Tocopheryl glucoside links vitamin E to glucose and is intended to release tocopherol through conversion in skin. Clinical research has studied it in a dermocosmetic containing retinaldehyde and glycylglycine oleamide.
Tocopheryl Linoleate
Vitamin E linoleate
A vitamin E ester used in skin-conditioning formulas.
Vitamin E
Moisture & barrier
Oil-solubleVitamin E derivative
Research & sources
Tocopheryl linoleate links tocopherol to linoleic acid. The cosmetic assessment documents this vitamin E derivative and its use in formulations.
Tocopheryl Nicotinate
Vitamin E nicotinate
A vitamin E ester used in skin-conditioning products.
Vitamin E
Moisture & barrier
Oil-solubleVitamin E derivative
Research & sources
Tocopheryl nicotinate joins tocopherol and nicotinic acid. Its identity and cosmetic use are documented in the vitamin E safety assessment. Nicotinic acid and niacinamide are different forms of vitamin B3.
Tocotrienols
Alpha-tocotrienol · Gamma-tocotrienol · Delta-tocotrienol
Members of the vitamin E family studied for protecting lipids from oxidation.
Vitamin E
Oxidative stress
Oil-solubleVitamin E family
Research & sources
Tocotrienols are members of the vitamin E family with a different side-chain structure from tocopherols. In hairless mice, topical and dietary tocotrienols accumulated in skin and affected oxidative-stress measures after UV exposure.
Trisodium Ascorbyl Palmitate Phosphate
APPS · Ascorbyl 2-phosphate 6-palmitate
A vitamin C derivative with both phosphate and fatty-acid modifications.
Vitamin C
Oxidative stress
Vitamin C derivative
Research & sources
APPS combines phosphate and palmitate modifications of vitamin C. These change its formulation properties. The ingredient listing identifies it separately from ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
EDDS · Natrlquest
A chelating ingredient used to help control unwanted metal-driven reactions in a formula.
Formula stabilizers
Formula protection
Metal binder
Research & sources
EDDS binds metals that can drive unwanted reactions in personal-care formulas. Supplier documentation describes its use to support product stability.
Ubiquinol
Reduced CoQ10 · Reduced coenzyme Q10
The reduced form of CoQ10, studied for antioxidant activity and topical delivery.
Other antioxidants
Oxidative stress
Oil-solubleForms differ
Research & sources
Ubiquinol is the reduced form of CoQ10 and participates in the same antioxidant cycle as ubiquinone. Topical ubiquinone research has measured increases in skin ubiquinol. Separate laboratory work investigates ways to stabilize and deliver ubiquinol derivatives.
Zeaxanthin
A yellow carotenoid often studied alongside lutein for skin hydration and antioxidant care.
Carotenoids
Oxidative stress · Moisture & barrier
Oil-solublePigment
Research & sources
A controlled human study tested lutein and zeaxanthin together through topical, oral, and combined use. Researchers measured hydration and responses to UV exposure. Zeaxanthin dipalmitate is an ester form of zeaxanthin.
Zinc
Zinc PCA · Zinc Gluconate · Zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate
A mineral supplied in different skin-care forms, including zinc PCA and zinc gluconate.
Antioxidant support
Oil & blemishes · Oxidative stress
MineralForms differ
Research & sources
Laboratory research on zinc PCA found changes in UVA-related signaling in fibroblasts. Zinc PCA and zinc gluconate are different salts used in skincare. Zinc oxide has a separate role as a mineral UV filter.