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Lipids in Skincare: The A–Z Guide

Lipids help skin hold on to moisture, soften its surface, and give skincare its texture. Some, including ceramides and cholesterol, are part of the skin barrier itself. This guide explains the oils, butters, waxes, and other lipids you’ll find on an ingredient list, with research and sources inside each card.

Reference updated September 30, 2026 · 126 entries

Try "squalane", "shea", or "barrier support". Press Enter to keep a term and add another. Results match all selected terms.

126 ingredientsAlphabetical order

10-Hydroxystearic Acid

10-Hydroxystearic Acid · 10-HSA

A modified fatty acid studied for the appearance of age spots and pores.

Free fatty acids

Uneven tone · Skin texture

Modified lipids
Research & sources

In an eight-week, double-blind, vehicle-controlled study in women, a formula containing 10-hydroxystearic acid reduced measured pore surface area and volume at eight weeks and age-spot contrast at four weeks. The position of its hydroxyl group distinguishes it from 12-hydroxystearic acid, a separate ingredient.

Apricot Kernel Oil

Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil

A softening kernel oil dominated by oleic acid.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Kernel oilsOmega-9
Research & sources

An analysis of five apricot cultivars found average fatty-acid levels of about 71% oleic acid and 22% linoleic acid. Tocopherol content varied among cultivars. The oil comes from the kernel inside the fruit's stone.

Arachidyl Alcohol

Arachidyl Alcohol · 1-Eicosanol

A waxy fatty alcohol that helps structure emulsions.

Fatty alcohols

Texture & spread

Emulsion support
Research & sources

Arachidyl alcohol has a saturated 20-carbon chain. It is often included in emulsifier systems alongside behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside. In those combinations it contributes to the solid, structured part of the formula.

Ingredient information: Seppic Beauty Care Ingredient Book

Argan Oil

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

A softening oil studied for changes in skin elasticity after topical use.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Kernel oils
Research & sources

A 60-day study enrolled 60 postmenopausal women in dietary-oil groups, with both groups also applying argan oil to one forearm. The treated forearms showed improvements in measured elasticity. The protocol used topical argan oil alongside controlled dietary interventions.

Avocado Oil

Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil

An oil from avocado fruit that softens skin and adds richness to formulas.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Fruit oilsOmega-9
Research & sources

Analysis of eight avocado varieties found oleic acid to be the dominant fatty acid, with palmitic, linoleic, and palmitoleic acids also present. The relative amounts varied among varieties. This ingredient is the fruit oil; avocado seed oil has a different composition.

Baobab Seed Oil

Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil

A seed oil containing oleic, linoleic, and palmitic acids.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oils
Research & sources

Chemical analysis of baobab oil identified oleic and linoleic acids as the principal unsaturated fatty acids and palmitic acid as the main saturated fatty acid. This mixture contributes to its use as a softening oil in skincare.

Beeswax

Cera Alba · Beeswax

A wax that gives balms structure and helps form a protective surface film.

Waxes & wax esters

Texture & spread · Helps retain moisture

Animal-derivedSolid waxes
Research & sources

Beeswax is a mixture of wax esters, hydrocarbons, and other lipids produced by honeybees. In a balm, its crystalline structure holds liquid oils in a more solid form. White beeswax is commonly labeled Cera Alba.

Behenic Acid

Behenic Acid · Docosanoic acid

A long-chain fatty acid used to add structure and a substantial texture.

Free fatty acids

Texture & spread

Saturated lipids
Research & sources

Behenic acid has a saturated 22-carbon chain. Its long, straight structure gives it a relatively high melting point, making it useful when a formula needs more body. It is also found within the triglycerides of oils such as moringa.

Behenyl Alcohol

Behenyl Alcohol · 1-Docosanol

A long-chain fatty alcohol that adds firmness and body to skincare.

Fatty alcohols

Texture & spread

Emulsion support
Research & sources

Behenyl alcohol has a 22-carbon saturated chain. It is used as a consistency agent in creams and other emulsions. Its long fatty chain makes it a waxy structural ingredient rather than a volatile solvent.

Ingredient information: BASF: Lanette 22

Black Currant Seed Oil

Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil · Blackcurrant seed oil

A seed oil containing gamma-linolenic acid alongside other unsaturated fatty acids.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsGLA
Research & sources

A study of five black currant varieties grown in Canada found gamma-linolenic acid levels of 11% to 17% of the seed oil's fatty acids. The oil also supplies other polyunsaturated fatty acids. The study measured seed composition across varieties.

Borage Seed Oil

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

A seed oil notable for its gamma-linolenic acid content.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-6GLA
Research & sources

Chemical comparisons of borage, tamanu, and prickly pear oils identify distinct fatty-acid profiles. Borage oil's gamma-linolenic acid is a notable part of its polyunsaturated fraction. In skincare, the whole oil is used as an emollient.

Buriti Oil

Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil

A fruit oil containing carotenoid pigments and a substantial oleic-acid fraction.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Fruit oilsCarotenoids
Research & sources

Analysis of buriti oil measured beta-carotene, tocopherols, and a predominantly monounsaturated fatty-acid profile. Its carotenoid pigments contribute to the color of the oil. In skincare, it is used as part of the softening oil phase.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

An emollient that helps dissolve crystalline ingredients, including some sunscreen filters.

Esters & modified lipids

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Ingredient solubility
Research & sources

This is a mixture of benzoic-acid esters with 12- to 15-carbon alcohols. Supplier data describe medium spreading and good solubilizing properties for crystalline UV filters. Those properties make it useful within the oil phase of sunscreen formulas.

Ingredient information: BASF: Cetiol AB

C15-19 Alkane

C15-19 Alkane

A hydrocarbon emollient used to add slip and a light finish.

Squalane & hydrocarbons

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Light feel
Research & sources

This ingredient is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons with 15 to 19 carbon atoms. Supplier materials describe its use as a spreading agent and emollient. Plant-derived versions are available under this ingredient name.

Ingredient information: Seppic Beauty Care Ingredient Book

Camelina Seed Oil

Camelina Sativa Seed Oil

A seed oil containing alpha-linolenic acid and longer-chain unsaturated fatty acids.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-3
Research & sources

A study of 53 camelina oil samples characterized variation in their fatty acids and other chemical properties. The profile includes alpha-linolenic acid and longer-chain components that help distinguish camelina from more familiar seed oils.

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil · Tsubaki oil

An oleic-rich camellia oil used to soften skin.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-9
Research & sources

A comparison of three camellia species found that both japonica and oleifera oils contained more than 80% oleic acid in the tested samples. Their minor components differed. Japonica has its own botanical ingredient name and is commonly associated with tsubaki oil.

Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil

Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil · Tea seed oil

A softening seed oil rich in oleic acid.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-9
Research & sources

Researchers comparing camellia oils measured distinct profiles for oleifera, japonica, and sinensis. Oleifera oil was strongly oleic-rich in that study. The species name is useful because the broad term tea seed oil can refer to more than one botanical source.

Candelilla Wax

Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax · Euphorbia Cerifera Cera

A plant wax that firms balms, sticks, and other oil-based products.

Waxes & wax esters

Texture & spread

Plant waxes
Research & sources

Candelilla wax is obtained from the surface coating of the candelilla plant. Its hydrocarbon-rich composition and hardness make it useful for giving sticks structure and adjusting gloss. It is commonly combined with softer waxes and liquid oils.

Canola Oil

Canola Oil

A softening seed oil containing oleic, linoleic, and alpha-linolenic acids.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-9
Research & sources

Canola oils are characterized by low erucic-acid content. Research across growing regions and years shows that climate affects the balance of their main fatty acids. Canola Oil is a recognized cosmetic ingredient name; the broader rapeseed-oil category includes other botanical and compositional specifications.

Canola Sterols

Canola Sterols

A sterol fraction from canola seeds used to soften skin.

Sterols

Softness & smoothness

Plant sterols
Research & sources

Canola Sterols identifies the sterol fraction separated from canola seeds. It has an established emollient role in cosmetics. Canola oil contains a much broader mixture of lipids, while this ingredient concentrates the sterols.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride · MCT

A fluid emollient used to soften skin and carry oil-soluble ingredients.

Esters & modified lipids

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Saturated lipidsLiquid emollients
Research & sources

This ingredient consists of glycerin joined to caprylic and capric fatty acids, which have eight and ten carbons. Supplier information describes a liquid medium-chain triglyceride used for spreading, dispersing, and dissolving ingredients. Its fatty-acid chains are saturated.

Ingredient information: Croda: Crodamol GTCC

Carnauba Wax

Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax · Copernicia Cerifera Cera

A hard plant wax that improves the firmness and heat resistance of solid products.

Waxes & wax esters

Texture & spread

Plant waxes
Research & sources

Carnauba wax comes from the leaf coating of the carnauba palm. It has a relatively high melting range and contains long-chain esters. Those properties help a formula keep its shape while also contributing to surface gloss.

Castor Oil

Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil

A viscous oil that adds slip, adhesion, and gloss to formulas.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Seed oilsGloss
Research & sources

Castor oil's principal fatty acid is ricinoleic acid, which has a hydroxyl group along its chain. That structure contributes to the oil's distinctive viscosity and ability to wet pigments. It is widely used in lip products and other oil-based formulas.

Ceramide AP

Ceramide AP · Ceramide 6-II

A ceramide used in moisturizers to support the skin's protective lipid layers.

Ceramides

Barrier support · Helps retain moisture

Skin lipids
Research & sources

AP combines phytosphingosine with an alpha-hydroxy fatty acid. In laboratory membranes, changing the spatial arrangement of this ceramide changed how the lipid layers organized. This structural research helps explain why ceramide chemistry matters in barrier formulations.

Ceramide AS

Ceramide AS · Ceramide 4 · Ceramide 5

A ceramide that combines a hydroxy fatty acid with sphingosine.

Ceramides

Barrier support · Helps retain moisture

Skin lipids
Research & sources

AS identifies an alpha-hydroxy fatty acid attached to a sphingosine base. It is one of the ceramide families found in the outer skin layer. The former cosmetic ingredient names Ceramide 4 and Ceramide 5 were reassigned to AS.

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide EOP · Ceramide 1

A long-chain ceramide used alongside other barrier lipids in moisturizers.

Ceramides

Barrier support · Helps retain moisture

Skin lipids
Research & sources

EOP has a phytosphingosine base and an extended fatty-acid structure with another fatty acid attached. Ingredient nomenclature assigns the former Ceramide 1 name to Ceramide EOP. Its place in skincare is as one component of a layered lipid system.

Ceramide EOS

Ceramide EOS

An extended ceramide involved in the layered structure of the skin barrier.

Ceramides

Barrier support · Helps retain moisture

Skin lipids
Research & sources

Skin's EOS ceramides contain a very long fatty-acid chain with linoleic acid attached. A membrane study found that EOS combined with cholesterol and free fatty acids formed an organized, repeating lipid structure. The experiment examined the physical arrangement of lipids in a model barrier.

Ceramide NG

Ceramide NG · Ceramide 2

A sphinganine-based ceramide used in formulas for dry skin.

Ceramides

Barrier support · Helps retain moisture

Skin lipids
Research & sources

NG belongs to the dihydroceramides, called NDS in much of the research literature. In cultured human skin cells, added NDS served as a starting material for several other ceramide types and increased markers of cell maturation. NG and NS are distinct ingredients.

Ceramide NP

Ceramide NP · Ceramide 3

A barrier lipid that helps organize the layers between skin cells and retain moisture.

Ceramides

Barrier support · Helps retain moisture

Skin lipids

Read more in Field Notes: Ceramide NP: The Barrier Lipid That May Help Dry Skin Hold Water

Research & sources

NP identifies a ceramide built from phytosphingosine and a non-hydroxy fatty acid. In cultured human skin cells, added NP increased loricrin, a protein associated with the cells' maturation into the outer skin layer. Ceramide 3 is its older ingredient name.

Ceramide NS

Ceramide NS · Ceramide 2

A sphingosine-based ceramide used to replenish the lipid phase of moisturizers.

Ceramides

Barrier support · Helps retain moisture

Skin lipids
Research & sources

NS means non-hydroxy fatty acid plus sphingosine. Computer simulations have shown NS molecules assembling into multiple lipid layers. The older name Ceramide 2 covered both NS and the sphinganine-based NG, which now have separate ingredient names.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol · Cetostearyl alcohol

A mixture of fatty alcohols that gives creams a smooth, stable texture.

Fatty alcohols

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Emulsion support
Research & sources

Cetearyl alcohol combines cetyl and stearyl alcohols. Suppliers offer grades with different proportions of the two. Those proportions influence consistency and melting behavior, giving formulators a way to adjust a cream's structure.

Ingredient information: Croda: Crodacol CS50

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate · Cetearyl octanoate

An ester mixture used to soften skin and improve spreading.

Esters & modified lipids

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Liquid emollients
Research & sources

This ingredient combines cetyl and stearyl alcohols with ethylhexanoic acid. The branched acid changes the material's flow properties. It is used as a liquid emollient in creams and other oil-containing formulas.

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl Alcohol · 1-Hexadecanol

A waxy fatty alcohol that softens skin and gives creams body.

Fatty alcohols

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Emulsion support
Research & sources

Cetyl alcohol has a 16-carbon fatty chain. It is used as a consistency agent and to support emulsions. Its waxy, oil-compatible structure gives it a different role from the small, volatile alcohol used as a solvent in some skincare.

Ingredient information: Croda: Crodacol C95

Cetyl Esters

Cetyl Esters

A waxy ester mixture used to add body and smoothness to formulas.

Waxes & wax esters

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Wax esters
Research & sources

Cetyl Esters is a recognized mixture of esters made from saturated fatty acids and fatty alcohols. It is used as a synthetic wax, helping adjust the firmness, slip, and consistency of skincare products.

Cetyl-PG Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide

Cetyl-PG Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide · Pseudoceramide

A ceramide-like lipid used to help dry skin retain moisture.

Ceramide building blocks & alternatives

Barrier support · Helps retain moisture

Ceramide alternatives
Research & sources

A four-week study in 31 Japanese women tested lip products containing 0.5% or 2% of this pseudoceramide. The 2% formula improved visible lip roughness at two and four weeks and reduced water loss at four weeks. The material was designed to perform some of the structural jobs of ceramides.

Chia Seed Oil

Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil

An alpha-linolenic-rich seed oil that softens skin.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-3
Research & sources

Chia oil has a substantial omega-3 fraction, primarily alpha-linolenic acid bound within triglycerides. Extraction research found broadly similar fatty-acid profiles across tested methods, while the concentrations of smaller phytochemicals differed.

Cholesterol

Cholesterol

A natural component of the skin barrier, used with ceramides and fatty acids in moisturizers.

Sterols

Barrier support · Helps retain moisture

Skin lipids
Research & sources

Cholesterol helps organize the lipids between outer skin cells. In a small study of six older adults, a cholesterol-dominant lipid mixture accelerated barrier recovery after tape stripping. The tested treatment combined cholesterol with other physiological lipids.

Cholesteryl Nonanoate

Cholesteryl Nonanoate · Cholesteryl Pelargonate

A cholesterol ester used as a skin-conditioning lipid.

Sterols

Softness & smoothness

Sterol esters
Research & sources

Cholesteryl nonanoate is formed by joining cholesterol to nonanoic acid. That ester bond changes the material's physical behavior. The ingredient is recorded under its own chemical identity and cosmetic name, separate from free cholesterol.

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

An ester emollient that helps a formula spread smoothly.

Esters & modified lipids

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Liquid emollients
Research & sources

This ingredient joins coconut-derived fatty alcohols with caprylic and capric acids. Supplier descriptions characterize it as a liquid emollient with medium spreading behavior. It is used to adjust the feel of creams, lotions, and oil blends.

Ingredient information: BASF: Mineral Sunscreen Solutions

Cocoa Butter

Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter

A firm butter that gives balms structure and softens skin.

Butters

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Plant butters
Research & sources

Cocoa butter contains characteristic triglycerides built from palmitic, stearic, and oleic acids. Studies of its crystal structure and melting behavior explain its firmness at cooler temperatures and its melt during use. These physical properties are useful in solid skincare.

Coconut Oil

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil

A predominantly saturated oil that softens dry skin and helps retain moisture.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness · Helps retain moisture

Saturated lipids
Research & sources

A randomized trial in 34 people with mild to moderate dry skin compared virgin coconut oil with mineral oil, applied twice daily for two weeks. Both treatments improved hydration and skin-surface lipid levels, with comparable results. Coconut oil is rich in lauric-acid-containing triglycerides.

Corn Oil

Zea Mays (Corn) Oil

A linoleic-rich oil used to soften skin and carry oil-soluble ingredients.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Germ oilsOmega-6
Research & sources

Fatty-acid analysis of corn oil identifies linoleic acid as its main polyunsaturated fatty acid, with oleic and palmitic acids also present. Its role in a moisturizer comes from the oil itself and the way it contributes to the formula's lipid phase.

Cranberry Seed Oil

Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil

A softening seed oil containing both omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-3Omega-6
Research & sources

Analysis of berry seed oils identified linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids in cranberry oil. A separate study characterized a cold-pressed cranberry ingredient containing these fatty acids alongside oleic acid. The oil is chemically distinct from a cranberry fruit extract.

Cupuaçu Butter

Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

A seed butter used to soften skin and give creams and balms substance.

Butters

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Plant butters
Research & sources

Cupuaçu butter is a triglyceride-rich seed fat. Studies of the fat and its blends have measured consistency, solid-fat content, and melting. These physical properties help explain how the butter gives balms and creams body.

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

A fast-spreading emollient used for a dry, smooth afterfeel.

Esters & modified lipids

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Light feel
Research & sources

Dicaprylyl carbonate is a carbonate ester with two eight-carbon chains. Supplier information describes fast spreading and a dry sensory finish. It can also help dissolve oil-compatible ingredients in a formula.

Ingredient information: BASF: Cetiol CC

Diisostearyl Malate

Diisostearyl Malate

An emollient ester used for adhesion and gloss, especially in lip products.

Esters & modified lipids

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Gloss
Research & sources

This ingredient combines malic acid with branched isostearyl alcohols. Its relatively substantial liquid texture helps give lip formulas adhesion and a glossy finish. It is recorded as a distinct ester ingredient with emollient uses.

Ingredient information: Nisshin OilliO: COSMOL 222

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Ethylhexyl Palmitate · Octyl palmitate

A softening ester used to add slip to lotions, creams, and makeup.

Esters & modified lipids

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Liquid emollients
Research & sources

Ethylhexyl palmitate combines palmitic acid with a branched alcohol. It is liquid at room temperature and is used as an emollient in cosmetic formulas. Octyl palmitate is an older name found in ingredient literature.

Ingredient information: Croda: Crodamol OP

Evening Primrose Oil

Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil

A seed oil containing linoleic acid and gamma-linolenic acid.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-6GLA
Research & sources

Chemical analysis has identified both linoleic and gamma-linolenic acids within evening primrose oil's triglycerides, alongside a smaller sterol fraction. Gamma-linolenic acid, or GLA, is the omega-6 fatty acid that distinguishes this oil from many common seed oils.

Flaxseed Oil

Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil · Linseed oil

An omega-3-rich seed oil used to soften skin.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-3
Research & sources

Alpha-linolenic acid is a characteristic component of flaxseed oil. Analyses of oils and oil supplements have measured this fatty acid alongside linoleic and oleic acids. Linseed and flax refer to the same plant, Linum usitatissimum.

Glyceryl Stearate

Glyceryl Stearate · Glycerol monostearate

A lipid ingredient that adds body and helps oil and water stay mixed.

Esters & modified lipids

Texture & spread · Softness & smoothness

Emulsion support
Research & sources

Glyceryl stearate is an ester of glycerin and stearic acid. Its oil-compatible chain and more water-compatible portion make it useful in emulsifying systems. It also contributes to the consistency of creams and lotions.

Ingredient information: Hallstar: GMS Pure

Glycosphingolipids

Glycosphingolipids

Sugar-containing lipids used as skin-conditioning ingredients.

Ceramide building blocks & alternatives

Softness & smoothness

Sugar-linked lipids
Research & sources

Glycosphingolipids contain a sugar group joined to a sphingoid base or ceramide. Glucosylceramides are members of this wider group. In human epidermis, glucosylceramides act as precursors to the ceramides that form the outer barrier. Cosmetic Glycosphingolipids is a recognized ingredient name, distinct from a whole rice, wheat, or konjac extract.

Grape Seed Oil

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil · Grapeseed oil

A linoleic-rich seed oil used to soften skin.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-6
Research & sources

Analysis of cold-pressed grape seed oils found linoleic acid was the most abundant fatty acid, ranging from 66% to 75.3% of total fatty acids in the tested varieties. The oil is the lipid portion of the seed; grape seed extracts have a different composition.

Hazelnut Oil

Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil

An oleic-rich oil used to smooth and soften skin.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Kernel oilsOmega-9
Research & sources

Analyses of hazelnut oil identify oleic acid as the main fatty acid. Work on the Tombul variety also measured alpha-tocopherol and beta-sitosterol. Its cosmetic role is as an emollient oil from the nut kernel.

Hemisqualane

C13-15 Alkane · Hemisqualane

A light emollient used to improve spread and reduce a heavy afterfeel.

Squalane & hydrocarbons

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Light feel
Research & sources

Hemisqualane is a familiar name for a lightweight hydrocarbon emollient sold under the ingredient name C13-15 Alkane. Supplier information describes rapid spreading and a non-tacky finish. C13-15 Alkane is a broader ingredient name, so the feedstock is specified by the material supplier.

Ingredient information: Givaudan: Neossance Hemisqualane

Ingredient information: Seppic Beauty Care Ingredient Book

Hemp Seed Oil

Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil

A seed oil containing both omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-3Omega-6
Research & sources

A study of 29 hemp varieties found linoleic acid was the largest fatty-acid component, followed by varying amounts of alpha-linolenic and oleic acids. This entry concerns the seed oil, a triglyceride-rich ingredient used for skin conditioning.

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Hydrogenated Lecithin

A modified phospholipid mixture used to organize and stabilize formulas.

Phospholipids

Texture & spread · Softness & smoothness

Emulsion supportLayer-forming lipids
Research & sources

Hydrogenation makes lecithin's fatty-acid chains more saturated. This changes their packing and oxidative stability. Hydrogenated lecithin is used in emulsions and layered lipid systems, including systems designed to carry other ingredients.

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

A saturated phospholipid used in structured lipid carriers.

Phospholipids

Texture & spread

Layer-forming lipids
Research & sources

Hydrogenating phosphatidylcholine saturates its fatty-acid chains. The change affects how the chains pack and the temperatures at which their physical state changes. This makes it useful in liposome and other lipid-delivery formulations.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

A synthetic emollient used to add slip, gloss, and a lasting surface film.

Squalane & hydrocarbons

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

GlossFilm-forming
Research & sources

This ingredient is made by polymerizing isobutene and then hydrogenating the resulting material. Different molecular sizes produce different viscosities. Cosmetic uses include skin conditioning and adjustment of the texture of oil-based products.

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

A more solid form of plant oil used to structure balms and creams.

Esters & modified lipids

Texture & spread · Softness & smoothness

Saturated lipids
Research & sources

Hydrogenation reduces double bonds in a vegetable oil, changing its melting behavior and resistance to oxidation. The resulting ingredient can range in consistency according to the starting oil and degree of processing. It is used as a softening and structuring lipid.

Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA

Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA · Pseudoceramide

A synthetic ceramide-like ingredient that softens skin.

Ceramide building blocks & alternatives

Softness & smoothness

Ceramide alternatives
Research & sources

This named ingredient belongs to the pseudoceramides, molecules designed with some of the structural features of skin ceramides. Health Canada's ingredient database lists its cosmetic role as an emollient. The two palmitamide groups are part of its molecular structure.

Illipe Butter

Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter

A firm plant butter that gives solid products body and structure.

Butters

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Plant butters
Research & sources

Illipe fat has been studied alongside cocoa butter because of similarities in its triglyceride composition and melting behavior. Research on blends measures how much of the fat remains solid at different temperatures, a useful property for shaping balms and sticks.

Isoamyl Laurate

Isoamyl Laurate

A spreading emollient used to give skincare a light, low-tack feel.

Esters & modified lipids

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Light feel
Research & sources

Isoamyl laurate is an ester of lauric acid and isoamyl alcohol. Supplier material testing describes high spreading and a light finish. It is used to adjust the sensory properties of oil blends and emulsions.

Ingredient information: Evonik: dermofeel sensolv

Isopropyl Myristate

Isopropyl Myristate · IPM

A fluid ester used for slip and to help disperse or dissolve ingredients.

Esters & modified lipids

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Liquid emollients
Research & sources

Isopropyl myristate is an ester of myristic acid and isopropyl alcohol. It is used as a low-viscosity emollient and solvent. Formulation research also uses it to influence the delivery of other ingredients through skin.

Ingredient information: Croda: Crodamol IPM

Isopropyl Palmitate

Isopropyl Palmitate · IPP

An ester that helps skincare spread and pigments disperse.

Esters & modified lipids

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Liquid emollients
Research & sources

This ingredient joins palmitic acid to isopropyl alcohol. Supplier specifications describe a low-viscosity liquid with good spreading properties and applications as a dispersing medium. Its main contribution is to a formula's feel and flow.

Ingredient information: Croda: Crodamol IPP

Isostearic Acid

Isostearic Acid

A branched fatty acid used to help bind components in a formula.

Free fatty acids

Texture & spread

Branched lipids
Research & sources

Isostearic acid is a mixture of branched 18-carbon fatty acids. Branching changes how the molecules pack compared with straight-chain stearic acid. Cosmetic ingredient assessments list its use as a binder and cleansing surfactant.

Jojoba Esters

Jojoba Esters

Modified jojoba waxes used to adjust texture and leave skin soft.

Waxes & wax esters

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Wax esters
Research & sources

Jojoba esters are processed wax materials offered as liquids, pastes, and hard waxes. Supplier data describe liquid grades for dispersing pigments and harder grades for strengthening sticks. The grade determines whether the ingredient adds fluid slip or firmer structure.

Ingredient information: Cargill Beauty: Jojoba esters

Jojoba Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil

A liquid wax that lubricates and softens skin.

Waxes & wax esters

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Liquid waxes
Research & sources

Jojoba consists mainly of long-chain wax esters. Chemical analysis of jojoba grown in Egypt found 40- and 42-carbon wax esters were prominent components. This wax structure distinguishes it from plant oils made mainly of triglycerides.

Kokum Butter

Garcinia Indica Seed Butter

A firm seed butter used to structure balms and solid skincare.

Butters

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Plant butters
Research & sources

Kokum fat contains a substantial stearic-acid fraction. Research comparing potential cocoa-butter equivalents has evaluated its triglyceride profile and physical behavior. The way its fat crystals form contributes to firmness in a finished blend.

Kukui Nut Oil

Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil · Candlenut oil

A softening seed oil containing polyunsaturated fatty acids.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oils
Research & sources

Kukui oil comes from the seeds of Aleurites moluccanus, also called candlenut. Research on Hawaiian kukui oil has characterized its fatty-acid composition and changes during storage. Its unsaturated oil fraction contributes to its use in emollient blends.

Lanolin

Lanolin · Wool wax

A waxy emollient that softens skin and helps reduce moisture loss.

Waxes & wax esters

Softness & smoothness · Helps retain moisture

Wool-derivedWax esters
Research & sources

Lanolin is the purified wax recovered from sheep's wool. It contains a complex mixture of esters, sterols, and related lipids and can hold water within a formulated mixture. These properties make it useful in rich creams, ointments, and lip products.

Lanolin Alcohol

Lanolin Alcohol · Wool alcohols

The alcohol fraction of lanolin, used to soften skin and help emulsions hold together.

Sterols

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Wool-derivedEmulsion support
Research & sources

Lanolin alcohol contains sterols, including cholesterol, and other long-chain alcohols separated from wool wax. Its structure helps it work at the boundary between oil and water, supporting the texture and stability of creams.

Lecithin

Lecithin

A phospholipid mixture that helps ingredients disperse and supports emulsions.

Phospholipids

Texture & spread · Softness & smoothness

Emulsion support
Research & sources

Lecithin is a mixture of phospholipids obtained from sources such as soy or sunflower. Its molecules have water-compatible heads and oil-compatible tails. This structure helps it organize at oil-water boundaries and form carriers such as liposomes.

Linoleic Acid

Linoleic Acid · Omega-6 fatty acid

An essential fatty acid involved in the formation of the skin's protective lipid structures.

Free fatty acids

Barrier support

Omega-6Skin lipids
Research & sources

Linoleic acid is attached to specialized acylceramides in the outer skin layer. Experiments examining this pathway show that its chemical processing helps build the lipid envelope around skin cells. In plant oils, most linoleic acid is bound into triglycerides; this entry refers to the free fatty acid.

Linolenic Acid

Linolenic Acid · Alpha-linolenic acid · ALA

An omega-3 fatty acid used as a skin-conditioning lipid.

Free fatty acids

Softness & smoothness

Omega-3
Research & sources

Alpha-linolenic acid has three double bonds. Flaxseed, chia, and several other seed oils contain it mainly as part of triglycerides. The free fatty acid used under this ingredient name has a different physical form from those whole oils.

Lysolecithin

Lysolecithin

A modified lecithin ingredient that helps water and oils interact.

Phospholipids

Texture & spread

Emulsion support
Research & sources

Lysolecithin is produced by removing a fatty-acid chain from lecithin phospholipids. That change alters the balance between water affinity and oil affinity. It is used for emulsifying and skin-conditioning functions.

Macadamia Seed Oil

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil · Macadamia oil

An oil containing oleic and palmitoleic acids that softens skin.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Kernel oilsOmega-7Omega-9
Research & sources

Analysis of Macadamia integrifolia oil identifies oleic acid and a substantial palmitoleic-acid fraction. Palmitoleic acid is an omega-7 fatty acid also found in human skin oil. This card follows the integrifolia ingredient identity.

Mango Butter

Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter

A kernel butter that adds softness and body to skincare.

Butters

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Plant butters
Research & sources

Mango butter is obtained from the seed kernel inside the fruit's stone. Research comparing mango fat with cocoa butter has examined its triglyceride composition, crystal forms, and melting behavior. Stearic and oleic acids are important components.

Marula Oil

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

An oleic-rich oil studied for moisturizing and softening skin.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness · Helps retain moisture

Seed oilsOmega-9
Research & sources

Clinical tests in healthy adult women measured marula oil’s moisturizing and occlusive effects on dry and normal skin. The tested oil improved skin moisturization and produced a moderate occlusive effect on normal skin. Analysis found oleic acid was its largest fatty-acid component.

Meadowfoam Seed Oil

Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil

A softening oil with unusually long fatty-acid chains.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsLong-chain lipids
Research & sources

Meadowfoam oil contains long-chain fatty acids, including 20- and 22-carbon components. Spectroscopy research compared its composition with pomegranate seed oil. Its long-chain composition distinguishes it from oils dominated by 18-carbon fatty acids.

Microcrystalline Wax

Cera Microcristallina · Microcrystalline Wax

A flexible hydrocarbon wax that helps balms and sticks hold their shape.

Squalane & hydrocarbons

Texture & spread

Solid waxes
Research & sources

Microcrystalline wax contains branched and cyclic hydrocarbons that form small crystals. In formulated oil mixtures it helps bind liquid oils and improve consistency. Different grades provide different levels of hardness and flexibility.

Mineral Oil

Paraffinum Liquidum · Mineral Oil

A liquid emollient that smooths skin and helps retain moisture.

Squalane & hydrocarbons

Softness & smoothness · Helps retain moisture

Occlusive
Research & sources

A randomized study in 34 people with dry skin compared mineral oil with virgin coconut oil over two weeks. Both improved hydration and skin-surface lipid measurements, with comparable effects. Cosmetic mineral oil is a refined mixture of liquid hydrocarbons.

Moringa Seed Oil

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil · Ben oil

A softening oil rich in oleic acid, with a distinctive behenic-acid fraction.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-9
Research & sources

Analysis of moringa seed oil grown in Pakistan found oleic acid was dominant and behenic acid was also present. Research on refining shows that processing changes some minor components, including compounds in the oil's unsaponifiable fraction.

Murumuru Butter

Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter

A saturated seed butter used to soften skin and build texture.

Butters

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Plant buttersSaturated lipids
Research & sources

Murumuru butter contains a substantial lauric-acid fraction. Studies of Amazonian fats have measured its composition, solid-fat content, and melting profile. These physical characteristics explain its use as a structuring fat in product blends.

Myristyl Alcohol

Myristyl Alcohol · 1-Tetradecanol

A fatty alcohol used to adjust texture and support the oil phase of a formula.

Fatty alcohols

Texture & spread

Emulsion support
Research & sources

Myristyl alcohol is a straight-chain, saturated 14-carbon alcohol. Its fatty chain makes it oil-compatible, and it is used in cosmetic formulation as an emollient and texture ingredient.

Ingredient reference: PubChem: 1-Tetradecanol

Oat Kernel Oil

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil

An oat lipid ingredient used for softness and studied for its relationship with skin lipids.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Kernel oils
Research & sources

In cultured human keratinocytes, a tested oat lipid extract activated PPAR signaling and increased ceramide production. These cell experiments help explain interest in oat lipids for barrier-focused formulations. The tested material was a lipid extract, with composition determined by its extraction process.

Octyldodecanol

Octyldodecanol

A liquid fatty alcohol that improves softness, slip, and ingredient solubility.

Fatty alcohols

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Liquid emollients
Research & sources

Octyldodecanol has a branched structure that keeps it liquid at room temperature. Supplier specifications describe it as an emollient for skin and hair care. It is also useful as an oil-phase solvent in formulated products.

Ingredient information: BASF: Eutanol G

Oleic Acid

Oleic Acid · Omega-9 fatty acid

A fatty acid used to soften formulas and influence how ingredients move through skin.

Free fatty acids

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Omega-9
Research & sources

Oleic acid has one double bond in its 18-carbon chain. Formulation research uses the free acid to alter the arrangement of skin lipids and increase the movement of other ingredients through the barrier. It also occurs widely within plant-oil triglycerides.

Olive Oil

Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil

An oleic-rich oil used to soften skin and provide slip.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Fruit oilsOmega-9
Research & sources

In two small studies involving 19 adults, repeated application of olive oil to the forearm reduced the integrity of the outer skin layer and caused mild redness. The studies tested direct oil application over four or five weeks. They help distinguish surface softness from measured barrier effects.

Palmitic Acid

Palmitic Acid · Hexadecanoic acid

A solid fatty acid that adds body to creams and is also part of skin lipids.

Free fatty acids

Texture & spread

Saturated lipids
Research & sources

Palmitic acid has a straight, saturated 16-carbon chain. It is used in the fatty phase of creams and in emulsifying systems. Laboratory barrier-recovery research has tested it as one member of mixtures containing ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids.

Passion Fruit Seed Oil

Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil · Maracuja oil

A seed oil rich in linoleic acid that softens the skin's surface.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-6
Research & sources

An analysis of oil from the Tainung No. 1 passion fruit variety found linoleic acid accounted for about 73% of its fatty acids. Research on purple and yellow passion fruit oils also documents differences in their aromatic compounds.

Petrolatum

Petrolatum · Petroleum jelly

An occlusive ingredient that helps dry skin retain water.

Squalane & hydrocarbons

Helps retain moisture · Barrier support

Occlusive

Read more in Field Notes: What Is Slugging, and When Does an Extra Occlusive Layer Make Sense?

Research & sources

Petrolatum is a semisolid mixture of purified hydrocarbons. Research on disrupted skin found that it entered spaces within the outer layer and supported barrier recovery while reducing water loss. Its occlusive action is the reason it is used in ointments and protective balms.

Phosphatidylcholine

Phosphatidylcholine

A phospholipid used to form lipid carriers and support emulsions.

Phospholipids

Texture & spread

Layer-forming lipids
Research & sources

Phosphatidylcholine has a choline-containing head and two fatty-acid tails. In water, suitably formulated molecules can organize into bilayers and liposomes. It is a defined phospholipid within the broader mixture called lecithin.

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine

A building block of several skin ceramides, used in barrier-focused skincare.

Ceramide building blocks & alternatives

Barrier support

Ceramide building blocks
Research & sources

In cultured human keratinocytes, phytosphingosine increased the production of ceramides, especially NP, and influenced the enzymes involved in their synthesis. Separate laboratory work has examined its antimicrobial activity. Its ceramide-building role connects it directly to the biology of the outer skin layer.

Phytosterols

Phytosterols · Plant sterols

Plant sterols that soften skin and contribute to lipid-based moisturizers.

Sterols

Softness & smoothness · Barrier support

Plant sterols
Research & sources

Phytosterols are a mixture of plant sterols, commonly including beta-sitosterol, campesterol, and stigmasterol. A human study of a soybean-phytosterol formulation found improved recovery after tape stripping compared with its vehicle. The study evaluated a formulated sterol treatment.

Phytosteryl Macadamiate

Phytosteryl Macadamiate

A plant-sterol ester that adds softness and body to skincare and lip products.

Sterols

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Plant sterol esters
Research & sources

This ingredient joins phytosterols to fatty acids from macadamia oil. The resulting ester has different physical properties from either starting material. Cosmetic ingredient assessments document its use as an emollient and as a way to adjust the consistency of oil-based products.

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

An amino-acid-derived emollient that helps oils, pigments, and water work together in a formula.

Sterols

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Plant sterol estersEmulsion support
Research & sources

This ingredient combines a glutamic-acid derivative with phytosterol and a fatty alcohol. Supplier studies describe water-holding capacity, pigment dispersion, and the formation of layered liquid-crystal structures. These physical properties explain its use in creams and lip products.

Plum Kernel Oil

Prunus Domestica Seed Oil

An oleic-rich kernel oil used to soften skin.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Kernel oilsOmega-9
Research & sources

Studies of plum kernel oils identify oleic and linoleic acids as important components. A comparison of cultivars also found variation in sterols and tocopherols, including beta-sitosterol and gamma-tocopherol. These minor components accompany the triglyceride oil.

Pomegranate Seed Oil

Punica Granatum Seed Oil

A softening seed oil notable for its punicic-acid content.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsPunicic acid
Research & sources

Analysis of pomegranate seed oils found punicic acid made up roughly three-quarters of their fatty acids. Punicic acid has three conjugated double bonds, a different arrangement from alpha-linolenic acid. The study characterized the composition of the extracted oils.

Prickly Pear Seed Oil

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil

A cactus seed oil that adds softness and a lubricating feel.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-6
Research & sources

Analysis of prickly pear seeds grown in Turkey found an oil dominated by linoleic acid, followed by oleic and palmitic acids. Later comparisons with other botanical oils likewise found a substantial polyunsaturated fatty-acid fraction.

Pumpkin Seed Oil

Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Oil

A seed oil containing linoleic and oleic acids that softens skin.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-6
Research & sources

A comparative oil analysis found linoleic acid made up about 47% of the pumpkin oil sample's fatty acids. Other measurements of pumpkin oils vary with the seeds and processing. The characteristic color comes from minor components alongside its triglycerides.

Raspberry Seed Oil

Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Seed Oil · Red raspberry seed oil

A seed oil containing linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-3Omega-6
Research & sources

A study comparing five berry seed oils characterized the triglycerides and their attached fatty acids. Red raspberry oil contained substantial linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids. These are composition findings about the oil used as an emollient.

Rice Bran Oil

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil

A softening oil containing fatty acids, sterols, and gamma-oryzanol.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Bran oils
Research & sources

Gamma-oryzanol is a group of related compounds, rather than a single molecule. Chemical analysis of rice bran oil identified ten components within that fraction. They accompany the triglycerides in an oil obtained from the rice grain's outer layers.

Rice Bran Wax

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax

A firm wax used to thicken oils and give sticks strength.

Waxes & wax esters

Texture & spread

Plant waxes
Research & sources

Rice bran wax is separated from rice bran oil during cooling and filtration. It consists largely of long-chain wax esters. Supplier formulation data describe its use as a thickener and binder, contributing hardness and texture to sticks.

Ingredient information: Koster Keunen: Rice Bran Wax

Rosehip Fruit Oil

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil · Rosehip oil

A rosehip oil used to soften skin.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Fruit oils
Research & sources

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil is the ingredient name for oil derived from the fruit of the dog rose. It is used as a skin-conditioning oil. The botanical species and fruit source distinguish it from Rosa rubiginosa seed oil.

Rosehip Seed Oil

Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil · Rosehip oil

A seed oil containing linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-3Omega-6
Research & sources

Analysis reported for a Rosa aff. rubiginosa oil identified linoleic and linolenic acids as its principal components. These polyunsaturated fatty acids are part of the oil’s lipid fraction. The cosmetic ingredient Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil identifies the seed-derived oil.

Sacha Inchi Oil

Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil

A seed oil containing substantial linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-3Omega-6
Research & sources

Analytical studies identify linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids as major components of sacha inchi oil. Testing of commercial samples also shows why composition is evaluated for authenticity. The two fatty acids occur mainly as part of triglycerides.

Safflower Seed Oil

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil

A seed oil that softens skin and adds slip to lotions and creams.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oils
Research & sources

An analysis of safflower seed oils found linoleic acid to be the main fatty acid in the samples, with substantial variation among varieties. High-oleic safflower is also produced. The plant name alone therefore does not specify a fixed linoleic-to-oleic ratio.

Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine

Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine

A modified sphingolipid studied for smoother-looking skin.

Ceramide building blocks & alternatives

Skin texture

Modified lipids
Research & sources

This ingredient joins a salicyloyl group to phytosphingosine. In a four-week, split-face study of 30 women with photoaged skin, a cream containing it reduced measured wrinkle depth and roughness compared with a placebo cream. Separate cell and biopsy experiments examined collagen-related markers.

Sea Buckthorn Fruit Oil

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil · Sea buckthorn pulp oil

A colored fruit oil with a distinctive palmitoleic-acid fraction.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Fruit oilsOmega-7Carotenoids
Research & sources

Analyses separating sea buckthorn seeds from the fleshy fruit show different fatty-acid profiles. The fruit oil is notable for palmitoleic and palmitic acids, and contains lipid-soluble pigments. The seed oil has its own entry because its composition differs substantially.

Also in the Antioxidants A–Z guide

Sea Buckthorn Seed Oil

Hippophae Rhamnoides Seed Oil

A seed oil containing linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-3Omega-6
Research & sources

Research comparing sea buckthorn seed and pulp oils found the seed fraction was richer in polyunsaturated fatty acids. Its linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids distinguish it from the palmitoleic-rich fruit oil. Botanical variety and origin also affect composition.

Sesame Oil

Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil

A softening seed oil containing oleic and linoleic acids.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oils
Research & sources

An analysis of sesame oils from five supplying countries measured their fatty acids, triglycerides, sterols, and tocopherols. Sesame's smaller constituents also include lignans such as sesamin. Processing conditions influence the oil's composition and oxidative behavior.

Shea Butter

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

A softening butter that adds body and helps reduce moisture loss.

Butters

Softness & smoothness · Helps retain moisture · Texture & spread

Plant butters
Research & sources

Shea butter is largely made of triglycerides containing stearic and oleic acids. Studies of samples from several African countries found wide variation in their proportions. That balance influences how firm the butter is and how it melts.

Shea Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil · Shea olein

The liquid fraction of shea, used when a formula needs softness with less solidity.

Butters

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Plant buttersLiquid fractions
Research & sources

Fractionation separates shea into portions with different melting behavior. The more liquid portion is called olein. Supplier materials describe shea oils as emollients for formulas that benefit from shea's lipids in a fluid format.

Soybean Oil

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil

A widely used emollient oil containing several unsaturated fatty acids.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-6
Research & sources

Soybean oil contains linoleic, oleic, and alpha-linolenic acids. Analytical work on commercial oils has also measured tocopherols and sterols, finding differences in these minor components between samples. Refining and the soybean variety influence the final oil profile.

Sphinganine

Sphinganine · Dihydrosphingosine

A lipid building block that skin cells use to make ceramides.

Ceramide building blocks & alternatives

Barrier support

Ceramide building blocks
Research & sources

Sphinganine is the saturated member of the sphingoid-base family. A study of cultured keratinocytes found that it promoted cell differentiation and ceramide production. The work measured changes in the cells' lipid metabolism during their development into barrier-forming cells.

Squalane

Squalane

A saturated emollient that spreads easily and leaves skin soft.

Squalane & hydrocarbons

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Saturated lipids

Read more in Field Notes: Squalane: Helping Dry Skin Hold On to Water

Research & sources

Squalane is the fully hydrogenated form of squalene. Removing the double bonds improves its resistance to oxidation. Commercial sources include plant-based feedstocks, while the ingredient name itself identifies the molecule rather than a particular source.

Ingredient reference: PubChem: Squalane

Squalene

Squalene

A lipid naturally present in skin oil that can also act as an emollient.

Squalane & hydrocarbons

Softness & smoothness

Skin lipids

Read more in Field Notes: Squalane: Helping Dry Skin Hold On to Water

Research & sources

Squalene is a component of human sebum, the oil produced by sebaceous glands. It contains six double bonds, making it chemically different from squalane and more susceptible to oxidation. Researchers have studied how oxidized squalene affects skin cells.

Also in the Antioxidants A–Z guide

Stearic Acid

Stearic Acid · Octadecanoic acid

A fatty acid that gives creams structure and helps stabilize their texture.

Free fatty acids

Texture & spread

Saturated lipidsEmulsion support
Research & sources

Stearic acid has a saturated 18-carbon chain. It contributes firmness to a formula's oil phase. When neutralized in an emulsifying system, it forms stearate salts that help oil and water stay mixed.

Stearyl Alcohol

Stearyl Alcohol · 1-Octadecanol

A solid fatty alcohol used to thicken and soften creams.

Fatty alcohols

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Emulsion support
Research & sources

Stearyl alcohol has a saturated 18-carbon chain. Its solid structure helps build the body of a cream and works alongside emulsifiers to keep the formula consistent. It also contributes an emollient feel.

Sunflower Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

A softening oil used in moisturizers, with linoleic-rich and high-oleic varieties.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness · Helps retain moisture

Seed oils
Research & sources

Two forearm studies involving 19 adults examined olive and sunflower oils. In the four-week comparison, sunflower oil preserved the outer layer's integrity and improved hydration. Its fatty-acid profile depends on the variety, including whether it is a high-oleic oil.

Sunflower Seed Wax

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax

A plant wax that structures oils in balms and sticks.

Waxes & wax esters

Texture & spread

Plant waxes
Research & sources

Sunflower wax is collected when waxes crystallize out of chilled sunflower oil. It forms a network that helps hold liquid oil in place. Formulation data describe efficient oil gelling and increased consistency in sticks and emulsions.

Ingredient information: Koster Keunen: Sunflower Wax

Sweet Almond Oil

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil

A softening oil rich in oleic acid.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Kernel oilsOmega-9
Research & sources

A comparison of five plant oils found oleic acid accounted for about 64% of the sweet almond oil sample's fatty acids. Linoleic acid is another major component. Sweet almond oil is obtained from the kernel and contributes lubrication to skincare formulas.

Tamanu Oil

Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil

A softening seed oil with a chemically distinctive resinous fraction.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oils
Research & sources

A laboratory study tested five tamanu oils from different island sources. At 0.1%, the oils increased closure of scratches in cultured keratinocyte layers. Separate bacterial assays linked growth-inhibiting activity to the more polar resinous fraction of the oil.

Triethylhexanoin

Triethylhexanoin

A liquid emollient that improves spread and helps wet pigments.

Esters & modified lipids

Softness & smoothness · Texture & spread

Light feel
Research & sources

Triethylhexanoin joins glycerin to three branched ethylhexanoic-acid groups. Supplier data list spreading, solvent, and pigment-wetting functions. These properties support its use in skincare, sunscreen, and color cosmetics.

Ingredient information: Croda: Crodamol GTEH

Watermelon Seed Oil

Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Seed Oil

A linoleic-rich oil used to soften skin in oil blends and moisturizers.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Seed oilsOmega-6
Research & sources

Studies of watermelon seed oil identify linoleic acid as the dominant fatty acid. The oil also contains oleic acid and saturated fatty acids, with the balance varying among seed sources. These measurements describe the oil's composition.

Wheat Germ Oil

Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil

An oil from the wheat germ that softens skin and contains tocopherols.

Plant oils

Softness & smoothness

Germ oilsOmega-6
Research & sources

Research comparing extraction methods found differences in wheat germ oil's tocopherol and sterol content, while its fatty-acid profile remained relatively similar. Linoleic acid contributes to its polyunsaturated fraction. The germ is the part of the grain that contains the developing plant.

How lipids fit into a routine

Choosing a moisturizer or adding a lipid serum? These Field Notes explain the practical details.

Open Research & sources for ingredient composition, study findings, and original references.