How Do Lipids Moisturize Skin?

A moisturizer doesn't need to contain any water to help keep skin moist. Lipids, which are fats and related substances, can soften rough skin and slow the water loss from it, and some formulas can also add to the lipids in skin's own protective barrier.^{1, 2}

How do skin's own lipids keep water in?

The outermost layer of your skin is made of flat cells, and three main types of lipid fill the gaps between them: ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. They form thin layers that slow water loss and help keep outside irritants from getting in.³

Their shape helps. Ceramides and free fatty acids have long, chain-like parts that can lie close together, and cholesterol helps the mixture form its layers. Water on its way out of the skin has to find a path through the tightly packed lipids, like someone squeezing through a crowded room.⁴

A lipid moisturizer supplies more lipids, whether it's a waterless formula or a cream that also contains water. Some of its lipids mainly soften and coat the surface, while others are chosen to add to the skin's own supply.^{3, 1}

What does a lipid moisturizer do on the surface?

Lipids such as squalane and jojoba esters coat rough patches and help skin feel softer and smoother. Ingredients that soften skin by coating it are called emollients.^{1, 5, 6}

The lipids in a moisturizer can also leave a thin film that slows water loss, an effect called occlusion.¹

An ingredient can do both jobs, though not always equally well. Blending lipids lets a formulator shape how the product feels and how well it helps skin stay moist.⁸

Can a moisturizer change the lipids in skin?

Some formulas can. In a four-week study, adults with dry skin and a history of eczema used two creams on separate areas of their arms and legs. The lipid cream contained ceramides, cholesterol and glycerin, and the comparison cream contained glycerin without the added barrier lipids. Dryness improved with both creams.²

The lipid cream also raised levels of certain ceramides in the outer skin layer. When researchers disturbed the barrier with repeated tape removal or a test irritant, skin treated with the lipid cream lost less water. Water loss measured before the barrier was disturbed did not change.²

The researchers suggest two possible sources for the extra ceramides: lipids from the cream, and changes in how skin makes its own.² Research on skin's structure and lipid behavior also guides ingredient choices in biomimetic skincare.

How do you use a lipid moisturizer?

Moisturizing starts at the sink. Harsh soaps and frequent washing can remove protective oils and irritate skin. If skin feels tight after cleansing, look at the cleanser and how you use it, as well as what you apply afterward.⁹

Use a gentle cleanser, keep washes short and choose warm water over hot. Then apply your lipid moisturizer while skin is still slightly damp, so it can help hold on to the water already there.^{7, 1}

Do you need a water-based product as well?

If a lipid moisturizer keeps skin comfortable all day, another layer may add little.

If skin feels soft at first and then dry or tight later, a water-based serum or cream with glycerin may help. Glycerin attracts and holds water in the outer skin layer, which makes it a humectant. A cream can pair glycerin's water-binding role with lipids that soften skin and slow water loss.^{1, 8}

You could also try a more occlusive moisturizer to slow water loss further.⁸ The lipid serum routine guide explains where another moisturizing layer can fit.

Why we built Omnia around lipids

Lipids make up the base of Omnia, so their feel and function shape the whole product. We blend squalane and jojoba esters with lighter emollient esters to soften skin and help the formula spread with a smooth, non-oily finish.

We chose Ceramide NP because it's one of the ceramides found between skin's outer cells,³ and our oat lipid complex supplies more ceramides.¹⁰ We also added a phytosterol amino acid complex, made from plant sterols and an amino acid.

The lipid base carries actives that dissolve in oil too, including THD ascorbate, a form of vitamin C, and bakuchiol. We designed Omnia to bring the serum, moisturizing and moisture-sealing steps into one application.

Whatever lipid moisturizer you use, notice how your skin feels a few hours later, as well as right after you apply it.

Sources

1. Whittaker L, Oakley A. Emollients and moisturisers. Clinical guidance, DermNet. Accessed September 25, 2026. Author updates listed for 2022 and 2016.
2. Andrew PV, et al. Topical supplementation with physiological lipids rebalances the stratum corneum ceramide profile and strengthens skin barrier function in adults predisposed to atopic dermatitis. British Journal of Dermatology, 2025. Funded by L’Oréal Dermatological Beauty, UK, CeraVe.
3. Wertz PW. Lipids and the Permeability and Antimicrobial Barriers of the Skin. Journal of Lipids, 2018.
4. Nădăban A, et al. Effect of sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramide ratio on lipid arrangement and barrier function in skin lipid models. Journal of Lipid Research, 2023.
5. Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Squalane and Squalene. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 1982.
6. Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Jojoba Oil and Jojoba Wax. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 1992.
7. Ludmann P. Dermatologists' top tips for relieving dry skin. Clinical guidance, American Academy of Dermatology Association. Updated January 2, 2026. Accessed September 25, 2026.
8. Sethi A, et al. Moisturizers: The Slippery Road. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 2016.
9. Ngan V. Irritant contact dermatitis. Clinical guidance, DermNet. July 2021. Accessed September 25, 2026. Updated by Patel K, Nixon R.
10. Oat Cosmetics. Oat Lipid e. Accessed September 25, 2026.