What Does Preservative-Free Mean in Skincare?

A skincare product labeled “preservative-free” can still contain ingredients that help keep microbes in check. The label usually means the formula has no added conventional preservatives, such as phenoxyethanol or parabens, which help control bacteria, yeast and mold.^{1, 2} It tells you what was left out. How the formula is protected depends first on whether it contains water, and an oil formula may still need antioxidants to keep its oils fresh.

How can a formula work without conventional preservatives?

Bacteria, yeast and mold need water they can use to multiply. Many creams and water-based serums provide it, so they need a way to control growth if microbes get in during manufacturing or use.^{1, 3}

A waterless balm works more like dry pasta in the cupboard. If it has too little available water for microbes to multiply, an added conventional preservative may be unnecessary. A formulator still needs to assess the finished formula, its packaging and whether water could get in during use, from wet fingers, for example.^{1, 3, 4}

Water-containing formulas can also use ingredients that do more than one job. Caprylyl glycol, for example, helps hold moisture and can also help control microbes. A product can be marketed as preservative-free because it leaves out conventional preservatives, even when other ingredients contribute to microbial control.²

Why might a preservative-free formula contain antioxidants?

Even with no microbes growing, the oils in a waterless balm can react with oxygen and gradually break down, much as cooking oil turns rancid in an open bottle. The process, called oxidation, can change how a product smells or looks. Antioxidants help slow the reactions inside the formula, before it reaches your skin.^{5, 6, 7}

Tocopherols, forms of vitamin E, can interrupt the chain reactions that damage oils, and certain rosemary extracts can also slow oil oxidation. How well they work depends on the formula they're used in, including whether the oils are mixed with water.^{6, 7}

Antioxidants protect the oils, but they don't stop microbes from growing. When a formula can support microbial growth, antioxidants alone don't provide the microbial control it needs.^{1, 6, 7}

How do formulators check that a product is protected?

A microbial risk assessment considers the finished product and how it will be used. When a challenge test is needed, microbes are deliberately added to the formula to see how well it controls them.^{4, 8}

Storage tests track changes over time under different conditions. For a balm, the tests can watch for changes in smell, color or texture.⁵

Why we use antioxidants in Omnia

Omnia is a waterless solid serum made with oils and oil-soluble actives. We chose mixed tocopherols and rosemary extract for their antioxidant roles within the formula and their potential benefits on skin. Alpha-tocopherol is one form of vitamin E in our blend, and carnosic acid is an antioxidant in our rosemary extract.

Our rosemary extract is not an essential oil. We select it for its antioxidant content and use it with mixed tocopherols to help slow oxidation of the oils in Omnia's waterless formula.

When you see “preservative-free” on a label, check the ingredient list for water.

Sources

U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Microbiological Safety and Cosmetics.
Chen T, Chang H. Deciphering trends in replacing preservatives in cosmetics intended for infants and sensitive population. Scientific Reports, 2024.
Kerdudo A, et al. Optimization of cosmetic preservation: water activity reduction. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015.
International Organization for Standardization. ISO 29621:2017: Cosmetics: Microbiology: Guidelines for the risk assessment and identification of microbiologically low-risk products.
U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Shelf Life and Expiration Dating of Cosmetics.
Burton GW, et al. Vitamin E as an antioxidant in vitro and in vivo. Ciba Foundation Symposium, 1983.
Frankel EN, et al. Antioxidant Activity of a Rosemary Extract and Its Constituents, Carnosic Acid, Carnosol, and Rosmarinic Acid, in Bulk Oil and Oil-in-Water Emulsion. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 1996.
International Organization for Standardization. ISO 11930:2019: Cosmetics: Microbiology: Evaluation of the antimicrobial protection of a cosmetic product.

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The best in the market

★★★★★

I absolutely love Omnia. I’ve tried a LOT of skincare over the years, and this is one of the rare products where I can genuinely see and feel a difference in my skin. It leaves my skin incredibly hydrated, smooth, and healthy-looking without needing a complicated routine or a million different products. I also really appreciate the thought and science behind the ingredients and formulation. My skin has never looked better, and I honestly recommend this to anyone who wants great skin without a 10-step routine!

Perfect for AM and PM!

At first I thought I’d try to preserve this and only use it at night, but I love it too much and need it AM and PM. In the morning it’s the only thing I wear on my face then apply a little bit of blush and call it a day. It’s silky and hydrating, and the times I have added another layer of makeup it acts as the perfect primer too. At night I use it as my last step moisturizer and it feels like it locks in all of the products I’ve used before. On nights I’m lazy (more often than not) I only cleanse and use the Omnia.

My new favorite serum

My new favorite serum. I love how quickly this product absorbs into my skin. Leaves my skin hydrated and glowing. Love love love. Will definitely be purchasing this product again.

The serum that retired my tinted serum

In my 20s I slathered on foundation like it was a personality. Full coverage, extra layer, the whole thing. I thought I looked incredible. I was the only one.
30s hit and I switched to tinted serum (thank god).
Then I started using Omnia and now I actually like how I look with just that. Soft. Skin can breathe. The glow does something foundation never did. Looks like skin, just better. Like I’ve been drinking 8 glasses of water and sleeping 8 hours. (I have not.) Immediate yes. Curious and excited to see what it does longer term.

Never ending moisture

My very favorite thing about this product is how the moisture it adds to my skin lasts … and lasts and lasts ! It doesn’t have a greasy or heavy feel , it leaves my skin feeling buttery soft and vibrant, and I only need to apply a very small amount once a day . A lot of moisturizers wear off but this is a totally different experience . It makes a great base for makeup and leaves me feeling radiant .

I’m loving this product

I honestly can’t say enough good things about this moisturizer! I’m 70 and over the years my skin had become noticeably dry, dull, and definitely starting to show my age. So along with aging skin came those little white bumps. I was amazed to see after several weeks of using Omnia they are gone. I’ve tried plenty of products, but this one has made a remarkable difference.
My skin looks and feels so much better. It feels hydrated, softer, smoother, and has a healthier, more youthful appearance.
This is definitely one of a kind. They’ve created something really special.

Obsessed

For texture think Sisley meets Dior 😍 it’s the most delicious application to your skin. I have very sensitive skin and am always hesitant to try new things once I find a routine that works and materia earned my full trust. If anything I feel like it protected me from harsher products at night and made my makeup application even more flawless during the day. Obsessed

I really like this product

I really like this product. It goes on so nicely and it really does absorb into your skin rather than laying on top. I’m 71 years old and I really think that it has improved my skin. I have always tried to take care of my skin, but I have never had a product that went on so nicely. And you don’t even need very much. I know when you first look at the price it seems like it might be expensive, but when you realize how much it does and how many other products you don’t need I think it’s really worth it.
I wanna thank material for making such a wonderful product

The texture alone

I collect skincare the way some people collect wine and I have never felt a texture like this. It is a firm balm in the jar, opaque and matte. Beautiful orange-gold color. The second it touches your skin it liquefies into a thin clear oil, and then a minute later it's setlled. Just skin that looks like skin, only better, and my makeup applies better than it did before. The jar is heavy glass and looks beautiful on the counter. Performance wise my skin is softer and more even after three weeks. This is the first product in a long time that feels like it was actually designed by someone.

On the first night my face felt smoother and it keeps getting better even seems to make my laugh

On the first night my face felt smoother and it keeps getting better even seems to make my laugh lines less noticeable.

What Does “Preservative-Free” Mean in Skincare?

How can a formula work without conventional preservatives?

Why might a preservative-free formula contain antioxidants?

How do formulators check that a product is protected?

Why we use antioxidants in Omnia

Sources

Read more

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